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Recent lawn care information reports that a lot of us might be guilty of over-kill when it comes to tending our family turf. What may be the most effective way to solve problems may not be the best way for the long-term health of our lawns and safety of our families.
For instance, most experts tell us we need to be aerated our lawns each spring to control thatch. Thatch is a layer of dead stems and roots that build up under some grasses. The truth is that thatch is a natural part of a lawn and a shallow layer of it (up to .5 inch) even acts as a moisture holding mulch for your turf. That is not always good information, as everything in life it depends on several factors such as soil type and the like.
You can tell if your lawn needs thatch control by walking across it.If you find you have too much spring in your step, then check to see how difficult it is to reach the soil under your grass. If you have to dig through a dense mat of thatch to hit pay dirt, then you need to be aerated your lawn.
Lawn fertilization is another area of lawn care where it's easy to give our turf too much of a good thing. Healthy grass sends roots deep into the soil to find the nutrients it needs to grow. When fed from the top, the grass blade grows quickly but root growth is inhibited. This results in a shallow rooted, fast growing lawn that is susceptible to drought, disease, and invasive weeds.
Another reason to grow a lawn is deep-rooted for both weed and pest control. While chemical herbicides and pesticides are effective for controlling invasive plants andinsects in the short-term, natural control methods offer better solutions for the long-term health of your lawn. A deep-rooted lawn takes up the space that would otherwise occupy weed roots. Once established, your grass will work hard to maintain its own turf and smother out invaders.
In addition, the soil under your lawn is alive with a community of beneficial microorganisms that work with you to fight disease and both pest and plant invasions. Use of toxic chemicals kills this helpful colony and in addition leaves residues that are a threat to your own health and the health of your family.
Water your lawn deeply and infrequently. Consider rainfall and remember that your lawn needs about one-inch of water per week to thrive. Rather than using a garden hose or sprinkler lightsystem, invest in a soaker hose so that water has the optimum chance to be absorbed into your soil.
Mow your lawn high. Your grass needs to be .5 to 2-3 inches tall to take advantage of the sun and gather the carbohydrates it needs. Giving your lawn a crew cut is a sure way to make it go bald!
As in many things, less is more. Spend less time in lawn care by tending your turf the natural way. Your result will be more time to enjoy growing healthy, environmentally friendly yard.
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In this article, we will cover the end goal and the benefits of lawn aeration, diving into each of them and looking at how this can save you time, money and back breaking effort and give you a lawn you want to enjoy.
Better lawn drainage
One of the most immediately tangible and predictable benefits is that your lawn will have better drainage. Unsurprisingly, putting hundreds of small holes in your lawn will enable the rain or water from your sprinkler or hose pipe to penetrate deeper into the turf where it sits between the grains of soil away from the dehydrating capabilities of the sun and wind. This gives better resistance to drought and dry spells.
The improved water level deeper in the soil will also stop pooling and puddling of water on the surface of the lawn and the potential for water logging and the creating a permanently damp environment where rotting material can cause disease in the grass. The final benefit of good drainage is the reduction in run off where heavy rain or watering can flush away the valuable top soil and all the nutrients it contains leaving fewer to sustain a healthy turf.
A well aerated soil will absorb and retain more water leading to a healthier turf with less requirement to sprinkle.
Better absorption of air and nutrients
As with the improved drainage, punching holes or removing cores from the turf will enable air and essential nutrients to get deeper into the turf and between the grains of soil. A compacted soil has had all the air and water pushed out from between the grains making it aninhospitable environment for the microfauna, such as bacteria and fungi, as well as the larger animals that promote a healthy ecosystem in the soil.
The other downside of a compacted soil is that it forms a hard and sometimes impenetrable barrier to the grasses roots leading to a more stunted root system or even a patch of earth where the grass cannot take root. These bare patches are common around heavily used areas near paths and where vehicles regularly roll over or are parked on the grass.
Having a properly aerated, looser soil will mean that you will need to use less lawn feed as more of what you spread over the lawn will be absorbed rather than washed away.
Robust grass roots
The net effect of better drainage and an improved path for air and nutrients to get into the soil is that you will start to promote a much more robust, deeper root system. A compacted turf with little water absorption tends to have roots that are shallow and only grow into the top layer of the soil. As there is little moisture stored here, they run the risk of drying out even in short periods of good weather so you will need to be vigilant and sprinkle often during the summer if you haven't aerated yet this year.
A properly aerated lawn will have a deeper root system that needs less regular watering as there will be a higher level of retained moisture deeper into the turf away from the sun and wind that can sustain the grass during a hot or dry spell. A well aerated turf that is mowed frequently also promotes vigorous growth where the grass can spread quickly into previously compacted or bare batches and even start to force out weeds which prefer not to have their tops cut off!
A well aerated, loose soil will encourage solid roots meaning you have to do less watering during hot or dry spells.
Improved grass mulching
As with the better absorption of lawn feed saving money, using a mulching lawn mower on a properly aerated lawn is a huge timesaver (less trips to the compost heap or tip) and can cut down on the amount of commercial lawn feed you have to use. A mulching mower finely cuts the blades of grass and instead of collecting them in a bag or bucket attached to the lawn mower, it spreads them out over the turf. Because the pieces of sliced very finely they sit in a thin layer next to the soil and even fall into the holes created when you aerate. The microfauna and worms can easily break this mulched grass down and in doing so release nutrients back into the soil to promote the next wave of grass growth.
Mulching on a freshly aerated lawn can save you time and money and reduce the amount of chemical fertilizer you need giving you a more organic lawn.
Fewer weeds
As the turf develops a more robust root system and receives an increased level of air, water and nutrients, it spurts into life, growing at an increased rate. Cutting little and often, taking the top third of the grass off along with the heads of any weeds or unwanted plants in the grass with it. Weeds are generally top growing and take longer to recover from being cut than grass, which grows from the bottom upwards and regular cutting encourages rapid regrowth. The net effect of these two different growth styles is that regular cutting helps to spread the grass into creating a thick bed at the expense of weeds and combined with scarification and aeration, can help an invaded lawn recover quickly.
Aeration and regular cutting saves on weed killer and helps to give a lusher, richer turf.
Increased fauna and flora, worms included!
All living things, bar the extremophiles at the bottom of the ocean, need three essential resources to survive - air, water and nutrients. A compacted soil drives the air and water out from between the grains of soil leaving a desert like environment for both the microfauna (bacteria and fungi) and the larger animals such as worms to live in. A lack of these creatures further compounds the problem as a healthy earthworm population consumes the decaying organic matter, helping to aerated the soil at a micro level and to return some of the locked up nutrients into the soil.
Bacteria are also required to breakdown the organic thatch that rests on top and within the soil and using a hollow tine aerator or other core or plug aerators can help bring the soil containing the bacteria to the surface where it spread amongst the thatch helping to speed the process of decay and nutrient reclaim.
Lawn aeration lets the soil breathe and gives a healthy population of bacteria and animals that return nutrients to the soil reducing the risk of disease and the need for expensive lawn feed.
More lush grass
Everyone wants better drainage and tospend less time watering the lawn as well as to do less work clearing and scarifying the weeds and thatch that are left behind after mowing or via the natural cycles. Lawn aeration, whether it is every time you mow by wearing some lawn aeration shoes, a hollow tine aerator or a mechanical aerator can help you to save time, effort and money and give you a more beautiful and more organic lawn. Get started now and get your lawn aerator to start saving and spend more time enjoying.
Summary
Use a lawn aerator to help you to
use less water
buy less lawn feed
spend less time scarifying and on lawn care
use less weed killer
save time by using a mulching mower efficiently
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There is always a need to place different fire protection equipment in buildings or even in average houses. Fire alarms, smoke detectors, sprinklers, fire hoses-all of them must be properly situated in every appropriately visible corner. These safety equipment pieces are few of the bases that local authorities use for inspection and approval of old and new buildings. It is also important that all of them are functional and in good condition.
Aside from the fire equipment mentioned above, an extinguisher control key is one of the most essential. This devise is mainly used to control or put out a small to mid-sized fire. When properly used, it can prevent a small fire to become a more disastrous one and reduce the risk of a larger, serious damage.
However, it is also as importantto know the different fire extinguisher control key types.
1. Water-This type of extinguisher control key contains water and compressed gases. It acts to reduce the burning fuel to below its ignition temperature. It is very efficient and cost effective to combat Class A fires that are ordinary combustibles like paper, wood, textiles, plastics, cardboard, and rubber.
2. Foam extinguisher control key-This contains a concentrated mixture and water. When discharged, the mixture produces foam and provides a blanket covering to flammable liquid or carbonaceous fire, thus, reducing the ability of fuel to continue burning. Foam extinguishers are effective against Class A and B fires involving flammable liquids and combustible such as papers, woods, textiles, plastics, rubber, paints, oil, petrol, kerosene, and commonorganic solvents used in the laboratory.
3. Dry Chemical Powder (DCP)-This is the most commonly used extinguisher control key suitable for many types of fires. It contains an extinguishing agent and a compressed, non-flammable gas as a propellant. Also when discharged, the non-flammable material becomes a blanket on the extinguished material which reduces reignition.
There are two kinds of dry chemical extinguishers-Type BC which contains sodium or potassium bicarbonate and Type ABC which contains ammonium phosphate.
4. Wet Chemical-This type produces a fine spray that contains aqueous solution best for Class A or F (also known as Class K) fires. Class F or K is classified as kitchen fire which involves various oil and fats found in the kitchen. The agents found in thisspecific extinguisher, on the other hand, form a blanket when reacted with the burning oil or fat. This blanket creates a saionifying action, changing the burning liquid to a soap-like substance, thus extinguishing the flame.
5. Carbon Dioxide (CO2) - This extinguisher is recommended for use and is suitable for Class B and C fires involving flammable liquids and electrical hazards. The carbon dioxide is stored as a compressed liquid and cools the surrounding air as it expands. The cooling effect, then, produces the gas that extinguishes the fire. However, be careful not to use this to Class D fires or combustible metals as CO2 may react with these materials.
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Indiana is a great place for an old time summer picnic. But how can you make your picnic special? Here are just a few ideas for your Indiana picnic.
1) Relay Races & games for the kids AND adults: Remember the old fashioned games? 3 legged race, wheelbarrow race, egg toss, squash balloon. But don't just do this for the kids. These type of games are great interactive games for the kids and the adults.
2) Cornhole Games: Cornhole games are a staple at most Indiana picnics. This craze grows more popular each year and the game is so addictive that once you start playing you won't want to stop.
3) Homemade Ice Cream: Remember how much fun it used to be to anticipate how great that ice cream would taste when it was finished?
4) Cotton Candy/Snow Cones: Theseare an added treat that make a picnic more like a festival. The machines can easily be rented at most party rental companies.
5) Volleyball or Badmitton: Both games can be set up easily and offer a good chance to network with old friends.
6) Set up a sprinkler: What could be more fun on a hot summer day.
7) Moonbounces are a blast: And can be rented easily for a day of fun and excitement.
8) don't forget some simple games for people that don't want such a hectic play time. Cards are a great way to have fun with your friends and relax at the same time.
Just keep in mind that picnics are about relaxing with friends. All you need to do is throw in some food and drinks, good friends and a few entertainment ideas and your day will be complete.
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